It was 96°F, and I was sweating through my bra in a boulangerie.
The woman behind me had a thick wool scarf wrapped snugly around her neck - the kind you’d expect to see on a frosty Paris morning in January. And the thing is…she wasn’t the only one. In France, you’ll spot plenty of people in full cardigans or scarves while the rest of us are melting into the pavement.
In June and July this year, the French countryside was baking under a full-blown canicule - that wonderfully medieval-sounding word for a heat wave. And as the mercury climbed, one question bubbled to the surface:
Where is all the air-conditioning?
The French Don’t “Do” A/C - Except When They Do
Yes, a lot of France survives summer without it - village schools, boulangeries, even performance halls. They close the shutters, wear linen, and sweat together in smelly solidarity. Americans often react with horror. (No A/C!? On a 95-degree day!?)
But here’s the thing - sometimes skipping A/C makes perfect sense…and other times, it’s just needless suffering. Of course, that doesn’t mean blasting cold air is risk-free either.
Back in 2017, we stayed at a French Airbnb where the A/C blew directly on my husband’s head. Within days, he had a serious ear infection. The doctor barely blinked - classic A/C ear. Cold, dry air can carry mold and bacteria if the unit isn’t clean, leading to ear pain and infections.
Lesson learned: A/C isn’t risk-free.
And yes, some French homes do have it, but it’s practically a secret society. One French friend whispered to me, “Kamille, me too. But shhhh.” It’s like admitting you use paper towels in a zero-waste household: discreet, slightly shameful, and never bragged about.
Comfort Isn’t the Goal - Resilience Is
The French approach to heat isn’t just personal preference. It’s cultural, shaped by:
History of energy conservation - WWII rationing, the 1970s oil crisis, and decades of eco-conscious policy.
Aesthetic pride - enduring hardship without losing your style.
Seasonal living - summers are meant to be hot, just as winters are meant to be cold.
Americans like to brag about grit, but the truth is we prefer it between 68° and 72°F, ideally with a smoothie in hand. The French? They’re out here casually surviving 95°F market days in black trousers and zero hydration, looking like a Renoir painting instead of a medical emergency.
The Surprising Health Upside
Science actually backs them up*:
Getting used to the heat can improve cardiovascular function, lower your resting heart rate, and make you a more efficient sweater.
Regular exposure to temperature swings boosts metabolic health, strengthens circulation, and even helps regulate sleep cycles.
Heat adaptation can reduce perceived exertion, improve mood stability, and build stress resilience, making challenges feel less overwhelming, physically and mentally.
In other words, that sweaty Wednesday market trip isn’t just character-building - it’s physiologically beneficial. While Americans stay sealed inside climate-controlled bubbles, the French are quietly training their bodies to adapt, recover, and thrive in less-than-perfect conditions. It’s resilience disguised as daily life, and it might just be one reason they can wear wool scarves in July without collapsing.
How to Stay Cool, French-Style
Close shutters by 10 a.m. and keep them closed until sundown.
Use “mist fans” (available in every French sporting goods store).
Keep chilled Perrier in the fridge - bonus points for a slice of lemon.
Go full linen - your French grandma was right.
Stock up on cooling sprays from the pharmacy (surprisingly effective).
Take multiple quick showers (no shame).
Slow the day down - naps, rest, and quiet time during peak heat.
Our American Compromise
We do have A/C - sometimes survival trumps stoicism. My American roots run deep, and my sweat glands run loud. We’ve learned to tolerate more heat when we’re out in it, but when it’s 95°F, adaptation and a positive attitude only get you so far.
During one brutal canicule in 2023, France recorded over 5,000 heat-related deaths* - a sobering reminder that while there’s wisdom in seasonal rhythms, there’s also wisdom in not dying.
Tips for Air-Conditioned Survival
Clean and maintain units to avoid “A/C ear” and sinus issues.
Keep nighttime temps around 22 °C (72 °F).
Hydrate (A/C air is dry air).
Venture outside sometimes - resilience matters.
The Bottom Line
A/C isn’t a sin, it’s science. But the French have taught me that summer isn’t always something to “win” against. Sometimes it’s something to live with, slowly.
If you can wear a wool scarf in a bakery on a 96-degree day, you’ve earned my respect. And probably my spot in the shade.
À bientôt,
Kamille
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Sources:
France’s 2023 heat-wave deaths: France recorded over 5,000 deaths due to summer 2023 heat.
Health risks of dirty/cold A/C: Poorly maintained air-conditioning systems can spread respiratory infections and sick-building syndrome.
Heat acclimation improves cardiovascular function, sweat efficiency: Heat acclimatization boosts sweating, skin blood flow, plasma volume, and cardiovascular stability.
Thermal variation enhances metabolic health and circulation: Daily temperature variation is linked to better metabolic health indicators and more adaptive thermoregulation.
Heat adaptation aids mood stability, stress resilience, lowers exertion perceptions: Training in hot conditions improves perceived exertion, boosts cardiovascular efficiency, and enhances stress resilience.
The French aren’t right. They’re just obstinate. And if you frame it as a ‘US versus France’ thing you’re bound to go wrong. Travel to Greece if you like. Everyone has air conditioning. Knock yourself out telling them they’re soft. No, they just want to get stuff done when it’s hot.
The French can sweat all they want. I won't. Air conditioning restores some of my belief in a benevolent deity. Cranking up the AC is an act of worship.